Week Four
During the ride, Marie will write a message recounting the highlights and progress of the day. Just e-mail Marie's husband Ron at ronnemec@hughes.net to request subscription.
- June 13 - Cape May NJ - Ocean City MD
- June 14 -Ocean City MD - Chincoteague VA
- June 15 - Chincoteague VA - Cape Charles VA
- June 16 - Cape Charles VA - Knotts Island NC
- June 17 - Rest Day in Currituck Co. NC
- June 18 - Knott's Island NC to Nags Head NC
- June 19 - Nags Head NC - Okracoke NC
June 13 - Cape May NJ - Ocean City MD
Fond farewells to the Cancelmos after breakfast. Drove to the dock of the Cape May-Lewes Ferry (www.capemaylewesferry.com) We had booked passage on the Ferry for 8:30 am but arrived early enough to go across the Delaware Bay at 7:30 am on a 1 1/2 hour cruise. The water was pretty rough, and I felt queasy most of the way across.
Charlotte rode first on this very popular cycling route with wide, smooth shoulders. We stopped for lunch right on the Transpeninsular Line that was surveyed back in 1751 to keep the Calverts (MD) and Penns (PA) peaceful, since they were claiming the same land. The Fenwick lighthouse is North of the line, and it was there that I-got the best news of the year.
Our son Kevin called to tell me that Cael Stanley Nemec had been born at 10:12 am Mountain Standard time in Steamboat Springs CO. He weighed in at 9 lbs 2 oz and was 21 1/2 inches long! His picture will be attached to this e-mail or you can see Cael on our website at www.bikeforthecure.org Erin, Kevin, big brother Jett (almost 2), and baby Cael are all doing fine.
I rode the last leg through most of Ocean City to the Atlantic United Methodist Church. We are very comfortable in an upstairs carpeted youth room with couches.
Went out to Wendy's for dinner and then stopped at Food King for a few necessities.
Another one of those wild days with meals in 3 different states: breakfast in NJ, lunch in DE, dinner in MD.
I am still basking in the thoughts of the blessing God has bestowed on our family with the addition of a second grandson! We had been praying for his development since October 22, 2009. (PS from Ron: Oct 22 is Marie's birthday, and on that day in 2009 Erin called to tell Marie happy birthday and to tell us she just tested positive for Cael.)
It was in the low 90's today - hottest day so far. We're giong to have to get an earlier start from now on.
15 days into the ride; have ridden in 10 states so far.
Charlotte and I each rode 17 miles and the ferry ride was also 17 miles, for a total of 51 route miles.
With love from a very blessed BG (Bicycling Grandma),
Marie
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June 14 -Ocean City MD - Chincoteague VA
Started another morning with a brisk ride on yet another boardwalk. Typical candy, souvenir, tattoo. T-shirt, and bike rental shops. It was very misty and chilly; quite a contrast from yesterday afternoon.
This is our second day on the DelMarVa peninsula (Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia).
As some of you students of trivia may know, Ocean City MD is the Eastern terminus of US Hwy 50. Western terminus is Sacramento CA. 3051 miles away.) Where I live in Grand Junction CO is just 1/2 mi. N of US Hwy 50, so technically I could travel all the way home and not have to make one turn!
Charlotte rode from Ocean City to the Assateague Island National Seashore. While she was riding,, I drove around, trying to spot some of the famed wild ponies. They are descendents of domesticated stock that was grazed on the island as early as the 17th century. Both Charlotte and I were able to see them, which is always a thrill.
Assateague is really a bit off our route, but a "must see" this year, as it was in 2005 during "Coastin' for HD." I rode to Berlin, where Route 113 took us South to Snow Hill and the turn-off for Girdletree and Stockton. Had lunch in the lobby of the post office in Girdletree, at the invitation of the postmaster. Nice to be out of the heat! There was no sign when MD 12 turned into VA 679. All through this area are farms, growing corn. I rode the last leg, from Horntown VA to Chincoteague. Rode past the NASA Wallops Flight Facility which was established in 1945. It is one of the oldest launch sites in the world. It was built to conduct aeronautical research using rocket-propelled vehicles. Wallops contributed to the development of components of space flight programs, capsule escape and recovery techniques. In 1981 Wallops was consolidated with Goddard Space Flight Center and is now NASA's primary facility for sub-orbital programs. There were some bulky looking cargo planes practicing touch & go exercises.
I rode on the causway across the Chincoteague Bay. Quite windy. The old drawbridge has been replaced by a gently arching road and a new bridge.
Chincoteague is named for the island's first inhabitants, the Gingo-Teague Tribe, who were driven from the island in 1672. Population slowly built up into the 1800's. Chincoteague was the only Virginia town which voted not to secede from the Union and stood against slavery. Population now is close to 5000.
Charlotte got directions to the Christ United Methodist Church. We are s taying in their Friendship Hall adjacent to the church.
After getting situated, we went on a whirlwind tour. First the Assateauge Lighthouse, which was built in 1866-67. It is 142' tall. Originally it was brick colored (like Currituck, which we have yet to see). In 1963 it was painted with 7 broad stripes of red & white. It really needs some upkeep. It looked much worse than 5 years ago. Mosquitos were also bad as they were in 2005 when my good friend Dede Duly, her oldest daughter, Kim's two children, Charlotte, and I were all there.
Had dinner at McDonald's then drove a circular route around Chincoteague. Saw the Carnival Grounds, the Beebe ranch, the schools, the Volunteer Fire Dept. Headquarters, and the main avenues. Stopped at the Island Creamery for the free wireless for Charlotte. Then back to the church to settle in for the evening.
Mileage -
Charlotte - 40
Marie - 38
Road change - 35 cents
With the 5 1/2 miles each on the Boardwalk and the side trip to Assateague,
we actually rode about 20 miles more than the actual route.
With love from Chincoteague, Marie
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June 15 - Chincoteague VA - Cape Charles VA
Left Chincoteague the same way we came in. Charlotte rode out Hwy 175 to T's Corner, where we turned South onto US Hwy 13, the spine of the VA part of the DelMarVa Peninsula.
This Hwy is well paved, with a good shoulder about 98% of the time. We even picked up a tailwind, so I was riding 11-12 mph. Passed both Tyson (in Temperanceville) and Perdue (in Accomac), chicken processing plants. This is a big business out here.
Just an aside. Saw in the local newspaper that Michael Vick, NFL quarterback, was in Snow Hill MD giving a motivational speech. We passed through the outskirts of Snow Hill yesterday.
Stopped at the Barrier Islands Center in Machipongo. It is housed in a historic "almshouse" farm building. "Almshouse" is a fancy word for a "poor house" which housed indigent persons in Northhampton County from 1804 - 1952. The purpose of this museum is to preserve and perpetuate the culture and history of the Virginia barrier islands through education, protection, and collection of artifacts and the interpretation of this unique coastal way of life. This 60 mile chain is now mostly uninhabited (except for Chincoteague). These islands are (N to S) Assateague, Wallops, Assawoman, Metomkin, Cedar, Parramore, Hog, Cobb, Wreck, Ship Shoal, Myrtle, Smith, and Fisherman's. The volunteer on duty is Jerry Doughty, a descendant whose ancestors go back 5-6 generations on Hog Island. He put in a DVD which gave recollections of 3 folks who had lived on a barrier island. People moved because of the erosion and the storm of 1933. Some had houses from an island moved to the Virginia mainland.
Arrived in Cape Charles mid-afternoon. We are being hosted by Bruce and Carol Evans at the Cape Charles B & B (www.capecharleshouse.com) It is a wonderful place, a Colonial Revival 3 story house built in 1912. We stayed here in 2005, but tonight are in a different room, the B.F. Kellogg room. Kellogg came to Cape Charles in 1885 and built the town's first private dwelling. He served on the first Town Council. The last house he built was in 1926, a Jacobean Flemish Bond brick. It is easily viewed from this second story Kellogg Room.
Crackers and cheese (plus optional wine) was available at 5:00 p.m. We decided to go to the Aqua Bar & Grill in a newer part of Cape Charles, alongside the Chesapeake Bay. Both Charlotte and I had salads, she a Caesar and me a Cobb. Large portions so each took home a box.
After writting and sending off my email for distribution I walked outside to get a breath of fresh air. Quite a site greeted me. There were dozens of fireflies flitting around as if celebrating life and flight. I hadn't seen fireflies in many years. (PS from Ron: The last time I remember seeing bunches of fireflies with Marie was in Montana when we were on our extended second/real honeymoon trip in 1969/1970. Am I dating us? Wish I was with her now to share the memories.)
Route mileage - 70
Charlotte- 37
Marie - 33
Road Change - 37 cents
With love from the Eastern Shore of VA,
Marie
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June 16 - Cape Charles VA - Knotts Island NC
Slept in a bit this morning, since breakfast was served at 8:00 a.m. Charlotte reported that it was raining! Lovely breakfast. We felt like royalty being served with such lovely presentation: OJ/cranberry juice, bran muffin (got recipe), and the entre was something Carol (B&B owner) created, called a Banana Wrinkle. (made with croissant pieces, cream cheese. eggs, half & half, sugar, vanilla, and bananas (got recipe). So elegant, and served with a sliced strawberry and a marigold!
Fond farewells to Bruce & Carol. Check out their new website www.capecharleshouse.com
Charlotte rode the 12 miles from the B&B. We loaded up and drove across this engineering marvel that is the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel. The tunnels are where the large ship channels are. There are two tunnels, each one about a mile long. Restaurant/gift shop not open - being renovated.
I started riding on US Route 60, trading off with Charlotte. We didn't stop at the Old and New Cape Henry lighthouses on the grounds of Fort Story. I found 4 quarters along that stretch. Went South on Atlantic then Pacific Blvd. near the beach, with its high rise motels. Saw a number of signs with the red circle around, and a slash through the middle. In the center was "@#!!." Meant "No cussing" or something like that. Skirted around VA Beach. At Nimmo, we got on Princess Anne Rd and followed that for miles, through rural VA Beach. Crossed over the Intracoastal Waterway on Pongo Ferry Rd, then South on Blackwater Rd. over the state line into NC. (The private security force called Blackwater is located across the bay in Moyock.
We are staying with Ruth Hargrave, who has lost two adult children to HD. She is an artist. Some may be familiar with her beach scene on the front of Carmen Leal's book "Faces of Huntington's." I have known Ruth for 12 years, and this is the 3rd time I have had the pleasure of staying in the home of this dear lady. Ruth had a rotissere chicken ready, plus potatoes, green beans/corn, and pie. Yum!
Ruth went to the graduation of one of her great grandchildren, so we stayed here and did laundry and relaxed. By evening, it was raining, but we are safe, dry, and warm inside! Good night!
Route today - 68 miles
SAG - 17
Charlotte 32
Marie 21
Road Change - $1.35
With love from NC
Marie
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June 17 - Rest Day in Currituck Co. NC
Rest day - not really. Rich full day.
Breakfast at a McDonald's in VA with Ruth, Betty, Georgette, and Marie Clay, the leader of their Support Group. All with HD connections; Betty and Marie have daughters with HD, and Georgette comes from a family that has been heavily hit with HD. She even lost her twin brother to HD. Good to meet these 3 ladies.
Ruth drove Marie, Charlotte, and me down the Albemarle Hwy out onto the Northernmost barrier island of the Outer Banks (OBX). Drove through Duck on Hwy 12. Quite an affluent area. Ate lunch at a pizza/pub. Pizza was terrible, salad was good, but it was served with no serving utensils.
After lunch, we toured around the Currituck Lighthouse, 162 ft tall with 214 steps. Completed in 1875, it was the last major brick lighthouse built on the OBX. It filled the void between the Cape Henry and the Bodie Island lighthouses. It is terra cotta in color, and is represented on the back of this year's ride t-shirt. Didn't climb up. (A gallery of pictures etc for Currituck lighthouse is here Currituck BeachLight House Gallery and also a link off of the picture on the home page.)
We toured the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education. Nice 20 minute informational film about the area. Walked to the Whalehead Club, completed in 1925, which originally was a vacation getaway for Edward Knight and his wife Mary Louise, from Philadelphia. There were many hunting clubs in the area in its heyday.
Went to Dairy Queen and did a little t-shirt shopping before the hour's drive back to Ruths.
Chicken alfredo & green beans/corn/carrots plus berry pie for dinner.
Wonderful day, touring and visiting folks from the HD community.
A week from today we will be arriving at the Convention site in Raleigh.
With love from the road, in hostoric Currituck-County,
Marie
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June 18 - Knott's Island NC to Nags Head NC
"Time to say goodbye" to RuthHargrave, who was such a wonderful host, chef, and chauffeur for us. We will see her next week at the HDSA Convention, though.
Charlotte rode out to the Highway 168. This was familiar territory from yesterday's touring. I parked the van in the same parking space where Marie Clay left her KIA yesterday.
Easy riding today, flat, some good shoulder on the highway. Very a gricultural. "Different" town names including Moyock, Sligo, Currituck, and Grandy. I rode across the causeway & bridge over Currituck Sound onto the Outer Banks (OBX). The OBX are probably the most famous barrier islands along the mid-Atlantic states..
Stopped at WalMart before lunch and a visit to the Visitor's Center at Kitty Hawk. We stopped at the Wright Brothers National Monument. Enjoyed seeing again where aviation began. The volunteer who gave an excellent talk stressed the determination and dedication of the Wright Brothers, who refused to give up in their pioneer efforts. Less than 66 years (3 generations) passed between these flights on Dec. 17, 1903 and Neil Armstrong's steps on the moon. Life sized oil painting portraits honoring aviation pioneers. I particularly enjoyed the biographical info on 2 WASPS (Women Airforce Service Pilots), Bessie Coleman (the first black woman licensed pilot), Herbert Kelleher (founder of Southwest Airlines), Wiley Post (1895-1935 who was the first to fly solo around the world), Georgia "Tiny" Broadwick (4 ft tall who was the first woman to parachute jump from a plane), and the Tuskegee Airmen.
We are staying just a few miles down the road from Jockey Ridge State Park with the highest sand dunes on the Atlantic Coast. Charlotte and I stayed in this same church 5 years ago.
Drove to Wendy's for dinner and went to two souvenir shops.
The weather here right now is just delightful. It would be great to be sleeping out, under the stars.
Route mileage - 78
Charlotte-44
Marie-34
Road change - 18 cents
With love from The Outer Banks - America's Beach,
Marie
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June 19 - Nags Head NC - Okracoke NC
Got up and rolling a bit earlier than anticipated because men started arriving to prepare the men's breakfast which is held every 3rd Saturday of the month.
Took a side road out to Bodie Lighthouse. Was surprised to find it is being restored. It is shrouded in scaffolding and external stairs to the top. It is anticipated that the whole project will take 1 1/2 years to complete.
I rode across the very long Bonner Bridge over the Oregon Inlet onto Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. This part of the Outer Banks is very natural and undeveloped. I enjoyed reading a display about Charles Kuralt (1934-1997). He was a native son of NC who hosted a popular TV news feature "On the Road with Charles Kuralt." He traveled in his motor home to out of the way places across America, bringing them into America's living rooms. At best, I would like to hope that these messages I write fall somewhere in the footprints and shadows of Kuralt.
For a few miles South of Pea Island, there is commercial/residential development. Passed through Rodanthe (site of movie "Nights in Rodanthe."), then Waves and Salvo. The beach houses along here are huge (3-4 stories). I think most are rentals based on the signage.
There was another stretch of About 10 miles which is undeveloped. Passed through Avon and after awhile as I was riding, I began to see the familiar black & white spiraling of the Cape Hatteras lighthouse. If the NFL Dallas Cowboys are "America's Team," then Cape Hatteras is "America's Lighthouse."
We took a side road to the lighthouse grounds. First ate lunch at the picnic grounds before touring.
As some may recall, the Cape Hatteras lighthouse was moved in 1999 about 1/2 mile inland, because of fears of erosion. Ruth Hargrave and I were there in mid-June seeing the beginnings of that formidable task. Cape Hatteras is the tallest brick lighthouse in the world at a lofty 208'. It was built in 1869-70 to mark the Diamond Shoals.
I rode from Cape Hatteras lighthouse to the Hatteras Ferry. It was pretty hot, and a longer distance than was anticipated. Along that stretch, I passed a sign indicating a radio milestone had occurred near here in 1902 when R.A. Fessender sent the first musical note ever relayed by radio waves to a site 48 miles North of here.
Charlotte drove the van, left it in the parking lot for me, and she and her bike "Annie" took the 45 min. free ferry ride to Ocracoke Island, where she rode the 14 miles to the church where we are staying.
I enjoyed the solo ferry ride across the Hatteras Inlet, and didn't feel seasick. People were feeding the seagulls, throwing bread into the air, and the birds would catch it! The water was clear blue green, more green than blue. For awhile, there was a pod of Atlantic bottlenosed dolphins visible.
I drove the van South on Route 12, which on Ocracoke Island is known as the Irving Garrish Hwy. Found Charlotte on Lighthouse Road, near the Ocracoke Lighthouse. We had been hosted by thiis Assembly of God Church in 2005.
We are staying where we did before in the parsonage on the second story of the church. Very comfortable.
Went out to dinner at the Pony Island Restaurant. Charlotte had flounder, and I had grilled chicken plus both of us had salad and zuccini/mozzarella cheese with sauce.
Long day. Happy to be in Ocracoke again.
Route mileage - 80
Charlotte - 46
Marie - 38
Road change - 6 cents
With love "On the Road" in Ocracoke,
Marie
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